[Ben Cheek]

I completed the winterization. The hole for the water line was widened to the South, the coil of black poly pipe was laid down on a bed of rock dust / man sand, three skid loader buckets of man sand were applied on top, and the hole was back-filled with soil. The north board in the hole marks the entrance of the line into the hole and the south board marks the furthest extent of the coil in the ground.

[Ben Cheek]

We still need to do the following:

*final clean-up at base of new wall
*place wood racks back into position in front of wall
* clean up of extra rocks and blocks thrown on top of wall
* inspect and determine if adjacent wall needs attention

[Ben Cheek]

When delivering oil to 154 Brandt (Admin Residence), Deerpark oil again requested a vent whistle. At this point, we should check all oil tanks for whistles and install:

House 1/2
Chapel
Spruce Lodge
154 Brandt

[Ben Cheek]

The ballast was removed and ballast-included tubes were installed.

[Ben Cheek]

Connections seemed fine. Further testing revealed no continuity for the tachometer (called a Hall sensor). Tested by organe wire to blue and orange to pink at the CN8 connector (wire side) and at the motor. According to online sources, this indicates the tachometer has failed. Sold as a unit with new motor. Bought from eBay – reclaimed, tested motor.

Helpful Instructions

Service Manual

Part WP34001437

Wiring Diagram

[Ben Cheek]

We found parts charred/melted from electrical arcing and corrosion including the contactor and terminal block. This meant a few of the element wires had come loose from the lugs on the contacter and also one main current wire btw the contactor and terminal block was disconnected.

Contactor in the bottom unit also showed some damage and loose terminal on the supply side.

We ordered from Amazon:
2 x Blodgett 90588 Contactor
1 x Blodgett 17556 Terminal Block
25ft Radix #8 AWG High Temp Wire

[Ben Cheek]

DL wrote: What if we dug a hole and boxed it in, then filled with insulation. It would be easier to get to later. just a thought.

Let’s take a look at how close it is to where the foundation is marked out. The big thing at this point with any solution is whether machines will be moving over/around it. If so, it’s better to bury it.

[Ben Cheek]

Since we’re at the end of the fair-weather season, we should replace this in the Spring to avoid excessive weathering during a season when no one will use it.

[Ben Cheek]

This issue recurred on the top oven on Sunday. I reset it, but it may have revealed a larger issue with the heating element.

[Ben Cheek]

Temporarily replaced with wired 120V smoke with battery back-up. Tested and confirmed works without building power connection. Required changing bracket. Retained old bracket.

Will order new Kiddie P3010B replacements.

[Ben Cheek]

Actually, I did have a replacement available so I did replace. The manual knob on the front does not seem to be turning with the motor, out operation was confirmed.

[Ben Cheek]

Replaced both Motel 2 & 4 Thermostats with Honeywell CT87K Round Thermostats.

The front portion of the LuxPro removed from 4 was saved since the only issue seems to be the missing clips from the mount.

The old mercury thermo from 2 was put on a box for eventual recycling either at Meier Supply or Mamakating Town Dump. See: https://thermostat-recycle.org/where-to-recycle/?zip=12785

[Ben Cheek]

Actually Motel 3 (Zone 2) actuator is working correctly, but the indicator LED on the bottom of the unit does not light. Minor issue.

[Ben Cheek]

Motel 2 heat is working fine, but the actuator has a fault and will fail eventually — should be replaced. See Taco ZA024Q4A2 Zone Sentry Actuator Popping After Closing. The problem here might be due to the fact the indicator on the thermostat is gone, so perhaps it’s hard to tell what temp it is set to. Recommend replace thermo.

Motel 3 heat works, but the actuator is stuck open, so when any unit gets heat, 3 gets heat. Will attempt to replace. Hopefully valve is ok.

Motel 4 seems to be a thermostat issue. The clips on the top of the thermo mount are broken off so the thermo body is loose and the pins that connect to the wires in the mount may not be making contact. Recommend thermo replacement.

[Ben Cheek]

Most similar issues online seem to indicate actuator replacement is the way to go. Since the zone works for now and I only have one actuator in stock and another zone not working that needs that actuator, I’ll leave it and order the replacement.

See: https://www.reddit.com/r/hvacadvice/comments/18rikgs/taco_zone_sentry_valve_clickingknocking_when/

[Autor]

Entradas